I certainly need to take the pictures again with a higher resultion as I had difficulty recognising some units.
Also the Bavarians/Wurttemberg units are missing
I'm off to Fiasco this weekend and hopefully I'll pick up some more Strelets cavalry figures for the period, although I wish Zvezda would produce some.
Originally I started out with a pair of typical 1813 infantry brigades each composed of a regiment each of Line, Reserve and Landwehr. to this was added a Guards regiment and a grenadier Battalion. subsequently various oddments have been added.
Above is a typical brigade, front row is three half battalions of deployed light troops, one for each regiment plus jaegers, these are soft plastic mostly HaT. Second row is a Line Regiment with two Musketeer Bns and a Fusilier Bn (all first edition Springwood), next the Reserve regiment with the same structure (second edition Springwood British LI figures). ; Finally 4 Bns of Landwehr (second edition Springwood)
Above, the second brigade with almost identical composition to the 1st brigade. The reserve regiment this time is made from 2nd edition Springwood Prussian Infantry figures.
The odds and sods brigade, the lights are Lutzows and Volunteer Jaeger. The next row is the Guard and Grenadiers. Behind is another line regiment plus an unattached Bn, Finally a couple of line Bns made up of mixed Revell/Springwood figures, an extra Springwood Landwehr Bn and a very old Airfix Landwehr Bn.
My Landwehr cavalry, the front four units are recently produced, the rear pair are Airfix Cuirassier conversions
From Left to right, 4 units of hussars, 2 of dragoons and 2 of cuirassiers (all Airfix conversions)
To the right of the cuirassiers are newer units - the majority of the artillery is all Hat figures (these replaced older Airfix conversions) the only old unit left is behind the cuirassiers. The limber teams more Airfix conversions. The units are a couple of units of dragoons (HaT) backed up by a mounted and foot unit from Lutzows Freikorps.
The next couple of pictures are for the Hinton Hunter
The commanders of my Prussian corps are none other than Blucher and Gniesenau (both Hinton Hunt figures) The other assorted dismounted commanders are by Strelets (a combined set with Russian commanders)
One of the brigade commanders is a well used Hinton Hunt Prussian general
Certainly fit for another 30 years, the real gap is commanders, with the exception of the Hinton Hunts all of them need replace/upgraded. Looking across the scale of upgrading the basing is far too intimidating to consider at the moment. They are also due for an outing perhaps to try one of the new sets of napoleonic rules that are coming out
the flags are from Alex's flags, then pick the Eastern/Northern European flags, then the Kingdom of Bohemia set. The ones I used were specifically signalling flags for use on the wagons, which are either red/white or green/black on opposite sides, not something I have come across before, so something to investigate when time allows.
To get a feel of what is involved look in a copy of the Rapid Fire D-Day supplement. (link)
(Historical) high points of the last few days were another walk to Dunstanburgh on a rather damp but atmospheric day, certainly assisted by dropping in on the Ship Inn in Lower Newton on the way there and back, out of the selection of own brewed beers the Ship Hop Ale was my favourite, another great recommendation by Harry Pearson.
The next day was even wetter, so it was off to Warkworth, the Percy's second residence after Alnwick, It's a lovely old town dominated by the castle, which never gets mentioned in Kingmaker, just very soggy on the day we were there.
Our final day was gloriously sunny, but with a strong wind so we revisited Bamburgh twice, once by bike and again up the beach on foot.
We had debated stopping in Durham on the return, but settled for a short stop at Barnard Castle, named after Bernard de Balliol, quite an impressive castle overlooking a crossing of the Tees. The bit that amazed me was that it fell to rebels because its water supply was cut off, given it had a well, I wonder how this happened.
A lot of history in a short time, it was a shame that a number of sites had closed at the end of September, but there was still plenty to see and do. In general the weather was kind, so a successful "staycation".
More pictures on flickr for those who might be interested
Then back south to Bamburgh castle, it's not EH, but was well worth a visit, it is a Victorian reconstruction, but still has the feel of the original and the Armstrong/Aviation museum is full of interesting items on engineering and local aviation history. My favourites were Lord Armstrong gun(s) and the items on German aircraft shot down. The state room also had some interesting arms and armour. Lord Armstrong seemed to be a typical Victorian engineer with lots of inventions to his name.
The Flemings (in the background are the Scots and a few spare archers I finished)
Overall impression is that it is still a nice show, good lighting, enough room to move around and lots of friends to see. I admit that this time, nothing particularly struck my attention. I saw a number of items that I'll probably pick up at Fiasco in a months time, especially the Minimi tanks. I've been dithering over these for a while as they say they will cast a thinner base to order, so it is easier to remove.
Both the Battle of the Boyne game and Ste Nazaire games were impressive in scale, but something was missing, I'm not sure what it was, but usually I can find something aspirational in the modelling or game, but not this time? I really wanted to try the Trebbia and/or Granicus games by the SOA, but I never had time, shame
Expenditure was very moderate, the new Osprey on Cromwell in Ireland by Michael McNally (not a relation) and the Battleground book on Ramilles. Lots of temptation on the B&B, I succumbed to some more medievals by Miniart because they were cheap and I nearly bought more GNW stuff by Zvezda just because I wanted two packets (as a just in case) and I would have resold the rest. I was really pleased to see that they went to a safe home with Andy Callan.
Overall it was the opportunity to meet up with lots of other gamers that made it a great day out. Thank guys.
At times, I am asked how I achieve a particular effect, and wherever possible I will try and respond, but sometimes it is difficult and I admit to failing to respond on my plastic welding techniques for adding lances and poles to standard bearers. This is not due to lack of interest or desire to share knowledge, but rather the difficulty of defining a very subjective technique.
Adding a metal lance/pole is tricky as the metal has to be warm enough to melt the plastic but only as such as it will rapidly harden back again again around the pole. This is dependant on three/four factors:
- The thickness of the metal pole - if it is to thin the heat rapidly dissipates and the plastic just melts without reforming over the pole (with or with out help) too thick and the plastic will just melt completely away from the pole, as a general rule thinner is better.
- heating the relevant pole sections - it is difficult to old the wire without injury so I use a pair of pliers to hold the metal while heating in a candle while ensuring most heat is concentrated on the points of contact. A rule of thumb is a count of three is a weld and a five will cut.
- adjusting the technique for the figures plastic - some figures have a much lower melt point such the Mars which causes major difficulty in getting the right heat into the wire. Some such as the new Italeri have the opposite effect and several attempts are needed before the pole is fixed in place
- Finally there is physical assistance (with care) - if the pole is still warm (hot) it is possible to close the models hand securely around the pole. gentle pressure with small nosed pliers is often all that is needed.
Obviously taking photo's of the above in progress is far to risky.
Alternatives and other techniques
Welding plastic lances/weapons - sometimes it is not possible to use a metal lance/pike/pole because of the stance of the figure or the weapon can't be replaced by a simple metal rod. In these cases I either use:
- Most recently Loctite super plastic, the two part starter and super glue set to fix the item in place.
- or traditionally, positioning the weapon and then heating a pin (see below) in a candle running it along the join to fix the weapon in place.
The pin is firmly held in a pin vice so that it is easy to (use just like a brush) I also use it as a means of "removing flash" then heating it and then runing it along the moulding line
- Firstly to finish all the medieval levy/pikemen, just a couple more colours and I'll be onto basing
- Then the Hussite wagons, this has been dragging on a bit as I wanted to make the wagons flexible enough to use for both Ancients and Renaissance, the Polish versions also needed a four horse barded team and I couldn't find anything suitable to start with. However I now have a clear plan so they should progress quickly from now on.
Onto the new and a change from Medievals/Irregulars (well almost)
- Napoleonic Hungarian Insurrection Infantry - using up the HaT Brunswickers
- Stakes for the Medieval Archers
- Napoleonic Prussian Landwehr cavalry
- WSS Hessian Grenadiers
- WSS Saxon infantry